2011 Bedrock Wine Company Pagani Ranch Heritage Wine

Bedrock is a different sort of winery.  It starts right from their own description on their website which states, "Bedrock is an itsy-bitsy winery making wine in a converted chicken coop," and it gets better from there. They even state some unique and interesting objectives on their website, many of which are in line with what I'm looking for:

To channel the fruit of ancient vines into powerful, elegant, and distinctly Californian wines.

To spread the gospel of Syrah in California by sourcing fruit from great terroirs throughout the North Coast.

To proclaim the greatness of Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon by sparing no expense on wines of uniqueness and personality.

To reclaim rose’ from the excesses of saignee and focus on precision, delicacy, aromatics, and food friendliness.

To make fascinating and quixotic white wines from unique sites and interesting varietals.

To make California Pinot Noir that ages as well as ’74 Swan.

To dream big but keep production low!

I only wish that more California wineries were thinking this way.  California has so much great terroir, but so little of it actually makes it to the average consumer.  There are simply too many places in California where its easy to make boring but OK wine at a low cost that appeals to the casual consumer who is more interested in brand or varietal than in place or terroir.

Unlike the winery itself, Bedrock's lineage is not all that small.  Winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson literally grew up in a winery.  His father Joel Peterson is the man behind the much bigger and better known Ravenswood Winery.  Morgan was exposed to wine at an early age, and today he is using that background and knowledge to make unique and interesting varietal wines and blends. 

The Pagani Ranch Heritage Wine is a true, old fashioned field blend.   Made up of approximately 65% Zinfandel with the rest primarily Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, Grand Noir, Carignane, and Mourvedre that is all picked and fermented together, this wine is a throwback to the days before California became obsessed with single varietal wines. 

In your glass, the Pagani Ranch Heritage is deep purple in color.  The bouquet brings aromas of cherry, black raspberry, and a little dried plum with a wonderful but mild funk to it.  On the palate, you get black cherry and blackberry fruit with a good dose of tannins and excellent acidity.  This is a wine that has enough balance from all the different elements to break my general rule of not liking wines that are 15% alcohol or more.  All the flavors, tannins, and acid linger around for quite some time after each sip, which makes this very interesting wine that much more enjoyable. 

From a pairing standpoint, I think this is surprisingly food friendly given the high alcohol.  It would be great with good old fashioned, smoky BBQ or any grilled red meats.  It would also pair beautifully with a roaring fire on a cold winter night. 

Overall. its not an everyday wine at $37/bottle, but it is an excellent example of what place rather than manipulation can bring to a great wine.  If I were tasting this blind, I would bet big money that it was from the south of France from someplace like the Languedoc or even Bandol.  It is very nice stuff with that little bit of delicious funk and complexity that makes you not only enjoy, but also contemplate each delicious sip.            

2009 Donelan Family Wines Kobler Family Vineyard Syrah

"Wine is a journey not a destination."  That's what Joe Donelan of Donelan Family Wines has to say right on the front label of his wines.  I feel that part of that journey is taking all the really interesting turns you find along the way that your taste buds lead you on.  One of the most interesting and rewarding turns for me recently has been the one that has led me down the road of cool climate Syrah.  More and more, I'm finding that Syrah in a cool climate is the varietal that brings the most incredible balance of delicious fruit, great body and weight, ample acid, and just the right tannins when done well.  For me it is the perfect combination of power and restraint, and trying all the examples that lean to one side or the other of the power/restraint continuum is a journey I'd like to continue for quite some time. 

In your glass, the 2009 Donelan Family Wines Kobler Family Vineyard Syrah is deep purple in color.  The nose is a wonderful conglomeration of cherry, blackberry, pepper, and some meaty/gamy notes.  There is also a really unique element of pine nuts.  It sounds crazy and took me a while to identify it, but once I figured it out, this subtle smell was just like a pignoli nut cookie baking in your oven.  I cant wait to see what happens with the bouquet as this wine ages.  In your mouth, you get delicious blackberry fruit with really nice acidity and a medium body.  Smooth tannins lead you into a fantastic and long finish.  Overall, this is a wonderful and very food friendly Syrah that is clearly cool climate and very delicious.  It is an elegant example of Syrah that is Northern Rhone-like in its exceptional balance. 

From a pairing standpoint, the combination of acidity and smooth tannins found in this Kobler Family Vineyard Syrah makes this really versatile.  It could go with anything from a grilled pork tenderloin cooked medium to grilled steak or venison.  I think its sweet spot would be a seared duck breast or roasted rack of lamb, but I don't think you can go wrong with this great Syrah.  Available for a price of $45 at www.donelanwines.com , its worth every penny if you're a fan of food friendly Syrah.

Cheers!


 

Hughes Family Vineyards Savannah Vineyard Syrah 2007

Que Syrah Syrah. We are becoming Syrah addicts, and we're OK with that. Recently, Wine Enthusiast wrote an interesting article about Syrah being the red skinned stepchild of California grapes. The writer argues that with so much attention and money showered on Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Merlot, it is a tough decision for any person or company to decide to plant a vineyard with Syrah. The article stated that Syrah just can't command the price in the market that Cabernet and Pinot can, and therefore not that many vintners are growing and bottling it. Furthermore, those who are, are having trouble selling it. This is all bad news for the wineries, but it has been good news for consumers who are scouring their local wine shops or the internet for values. It is also interesting to note that although California Syrah can't command the same price as other California reds, it can produce some really wonderful wines, and these wines often walk a fine line somewhere between the subdued Syrahs of the Northern Rhone and the Aussie fruit bombs.

Today's subject is a real world example of the Wine Enthusiast story. The Hughes Family Vineyards Savannah Vineyard Syrah 2007 retails for $40, but I got it in a clearance sale for half that price. Deep purple in color, the wine brings aromas of cherry and blackberry fruit, black pepper, and the gamy, meaty quality that is so uniquely Syrah. In your mouth you get delicious cherry fruit with great acidity and very well integrated tannins. It is definitely a full bodied wine, but I'm pleased to say it doesn't have any of that heavy, syrupy feel that is so typical of Aussie Shiraz. The up front fruit, the acidity, and the tannins all slowly combine and linger on the palate in what is a fantastic finish. Overall, this is a very nice Syrah, and to me it embodies what California Syrah should be. Its a more easily approachable than Northern Rhone Syrahs (which I do love by the way) with a little more up front fruit, but it is much more than just a fruit explosion on the front end. There is some structure and balance that make this a really nice wine.

From a food standpoint, this would be a great wine to pair with grilled red meats - especially game. It would work beautifully with a rack of lamb or some grilled venison. It would also pair nicely with some good old fashioned BBQ. The Hughes Family Vineyards Savannah Vineyard Syrah is a decent value at $40 and a phenomenal value at $20. I'm kicking myself for not buying a lot more than the 4 bottles that I bought at that limited time only price.

Cheers!

Girard Artistry Napa Valley 2008

Recently a friend of ours asked what California wines we can recommend for someone who likes Bordeaux blends much more than typical California Cabs. As it turns out I just recently tasted the 2008 vintage of Girard Winery's Artistry blend, which is year in and year out a great Bordeaux style blend. It is a wine that gives plenty of fruit for those who like California Cabernets, but it is very clearly a Bordeaux style blend that strives to bring some balance and finesse.

The 2008 Artistry is purple red in your glass. Made from 59% Cabernet Sauvigonon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 11% Malbec, 6% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot that is aged in 50% new and 50% once used French oak, the wine brings plenty of the classic Napa Cab blackberry and cassis aromas. Underneath that, though, there are layers of plum, cedar, and some mild earthy and spicy nuances. On the palate, you get more of the same blackberry and cassis with an added element of black cherry to go along with it. Very well integrated tannins and decent acidity bring some structure to the blend, and the finish has some nice length to it. This is a wine that you can enjoy as you smell it, sip it, and as the complex flavors linger on your palate.

Overall, this is a really nice wine for the price, which ranges in the low to high $30s depending on where you are. The up front fruit is outstanding, and it has plenty of structure and complexity to back that up. It would pair well with a nice steak or any grilled red meats.

Finally, I can't write about Girard without mentioning that it is one of my absolute favorite stops in Napa Valley. Their tasting room is right in the heart of Yountville and is one of the most enjoyable, relaxing tasting rooms you will find in Napa Valley. If you're out that way, definitely stop in to see them.

Cheers!

Catena Alta Malbec 2005

When I think Malbec, I normally think "good to very good wine and great value." There are so many pleasant Argentinian Malbecs out there in the $15 and under category, that it's almost too easy to find good values. Lets face it fellow wine geeks - part of the thrill of a great value is the hunt itself - right? So a few years ago I asked my friend Ryan Seward, currently the Wine Education Director at City Wine Merchant ( http://www.citywinemerchant.com/ ), to set up a South American tasting for me and some of my friends so we could try to discover some more unique Argentinian and South American wines. Among other things we discovered a crazy Chilean Pinot and a really interesting Argentinian Syrah, but the star of the show was clearly the Catena Alta Malbec 2005.

In your glass you will see a very intense inky purple color and you will breathe in aromas of dark berries, plum, and leather. This is a wine that I could swirl and smell for a good half an hour without even taking a sip. In your mouth you get dark berry and black cherry fruit with a mix of mild spice and a hint of chocolate. The wine has a beautiful, rich mouthfeel without being overwhelming, and the well integrated tannins are just perfect.

I have to confess that this wine has single handedly changed my perception of what Malbec can be. I always thought of it as a really nice everyday wine that really had no place at the table for special occasions, but this Catena Alta Malbec is one of my all time favorite reds. It brings the great fruit that Malbecs can have, but underneath all that fruit there is additional depth and complexity that take this to a higher level. Here is a Malbec that would pair beautifully with grilled red meats. For a true Argentinian food and wine experience, put some flank steak on the grill and make a nice authentic chimichurri to spoon over it. You won't be disappointed.

You can find this wine for just under $50, and it would hold its own against many Cabs that retail for twice the price.

Cheers!

Elizabeth Spencer Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2006

Elizabeth Spencer is one of those small Napa wineries that make really nice wine that not many people know about. Established in 1998, their distribution is limited and most if not all of their retail sales are through their website and their charming little tasting room in Rutherford. They make many different wines ranging from Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay for whites to Grenache, Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Merlot for the reds; however, my belief is that their best wines are their Cabernets. They have a few different Reserve Cabernets as well as their basic Napa Valley Cabernet, and all of them are quite good.

Today I’m taking a close look at their basic Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. It has a relatively small production of 2000 cases, but this is a lot compared to some of their reserves that have as little as 100 cases made.

In your glass, the wine has a beautiful purple red color. The nose brings classic Napa Cab aromas of blackberry and cassis with some black cherry in the mix as well. There is also just a little bit of a minty, herbal element to the bouquet. In your mouth, you’ll find a fruit profile that is similar to the nose along with a surprising and very pleasant hint of earthiness. The mouthfeel is really nice and not at all overwhelming like some Napa Cabs can be, and the tannins are very much present but beautifully integrated. This Cabernet has some really nice structure to it, and although it’s drinking nicely now, it should only get better over the next couple of years.

As far as food goes, this will pair perfectly with grilled steak or game just like any good Cabernet, but it also is food friendly enough to work with braised lamb shanks or a beef or lamb stew. At a price of $40 this is a nice value. If you join their wine club and get it for $32, it’s a great deal! As an added bonus, I think it’s a little bit better than any of their reserve Cabs which go for $60 to $80 a bottle.

Cheers!

Chateau La Bienfaisance Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2005

Bordeaux is arguably the most famous and highly regarded wine region in the world. This is not to say, however, that I'm personally making a case for the wines of Bordeaux as the best in the world. In fact for the last year, I had to work very hard to find wines from this famed region that I liked that didn't cost hundreds or thousands of dollars for a bottle. I'm sure I would love Petrus or Cheval Blanc, but there just aren't quite enough zeros at the end of my paycheck to drink those.

So about six months ago, I made it a priority to find some Bordeaux wines that are affordable and good. I figured that if so many people felt that this region is so great, then I must be able to find some good values in it. At first it wasn't easy. I started by attending a Bordeaux tasting at a local wine retailer, and the results weren't so good. Most of the wines I tasted were major disappointments. There was one exception, though, and I just revisited this wine last weekend with a wonderful dinner of lamb tenderloin with a blackberry demi-glace and a wild mushroom risotto. That exception is a wonderful blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc from Saint-Emilion.

The Chateau La Bienfaisance Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2005 is an intense purple red color in your glass. More modern in style, the nose brings black cherry, cassis, and a hint of chocolate. On the palate you get loads of cherry fruit with just a little bit of the cassis. Smooth, velvety tannins and some very nice acidity make this a beautifully structured wine that is right up my alley. I love wines that deliver delicious fruit flavor but also have structure and balance, and this fine offering from the Right Bank delivers on all accounts. This is a very good Bordeaux that is a steal in the $40 range. This wine is drinking very well now and should continue to improve with cellaring.

The wine paired beautifully with my lamb tenderloin with blackberry demi-glace, and would work very well with many French cheeses.

This is one of the first Bordeaux wines that I found that I love, but its definitely not the last. I'm going to have a lot of fun trying to find some more!

Cheers!

L'Oustal Blanc Naick 6

Every once in a while, I’m lucky enough to taste something that is just so different from other wines out there that it’s crazy. Sometimes it’s crazy in a bad way, and when I’m lucky it can be crazy in a good way. The L’Oustal Blanc Naick 6 (the 6 is for 2006 vintage) is a white table wine that is crazy in numerous and fantastic ways. L’Oustal Blanc is a very interesting winery run by Claude Fonquerle, who grew up in the vineyards of the Languedoc and spent a number of years working in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. He, along with his winemaker, Philippe Cambie, is making some outstanding wines with fruit mostly sourced from Minervois and Minervois La Liviniere in the Languedoc. Their self proclaimed style is to go for “purity and complexity” in their wines, and with this L’Oustal Blanc Naick 6, they have certainly hit their mark. The L’Oustal Blanc Naick 6 is sourced from grapes in Minervois and Minervois La Liviniere, but it is sold as Vins de Table or table wine, which is generally the lowest classification in the French wine law. The reason for this is that Fonquerle and Cambie have gone with a non-traditional grape blend that doesn’t meet the AOC requirements for varietal use. The blend in this case is 95% Grenache Gris and 5% Macabeo. Grenache Gris is an uncommon relative of the red Grenache grape, and Macabeo is a varietal I’ve only seen in Spanish Cava before this wine. I’m not sure what gave L’Oustal Blanc the idea for this blend, but I’m here to tell you it works wonderfully! In your glass you see an intense golden color, almost to the point of looking like a dessert wine. The nose brings a lot of peach with a touch of orange and pineapple, that doesn’t smell nearly as tropical and fruity as that sounds. You also get some subtle oak on the nose. The palate brings some more of the same fruit and nicely done oak from the bouquet, but it also has a wonderful stony minerality and great acidity. The body is full, but somehow this wine is full bodied and refreshing at the same time, without being the least bit flabby. It’s almost as if you’ve taken the body of a California Chardonnay and the minerality and acidity of a great White Burgundy and somehow blended them together perfectly. That’s a crazy description for a wine that doesn't even have any Chardonnay grapes in it, but this is a wine like no other that I’ve had! It’s very unique with a wild mix of flavors and characteristics that all somehow combine to produce a beautifully balanced wine with a solid finish. L’Oustal Blanc’s English language website is filled with horrible translations from French, but in their own “Frenglish” way, their tasting notes get this much right, “The taste is wide, elegant, finely wooded, and fresh.” Retailing in the mid $30’s, this is no everyday wine, but it delivers excellent value and unbelievable complexity for the price. I had this with a baked chicken breast with artichoke pesto, and it worked pretty well, but with the complexity of flavor this wine had, I have to say I enjoyed it best after dinner all on its own. Cheers!

Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas 2006

With the outstanding 2007 Rhone vintage being released recently, you can expect to see a lot of reviews from me in the coming months from this wonderful region in Southern France. For today, though, we are looking at a red from the Southern Rhone from the 2006 vintage, the 2006 Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas 2006.

Although it can no longer be considered a well kept secret, Gigondas is one of a few appellations in the Southern Rhone that are turning out some outstanding wines, but that are not as well known as the much more famous Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation. Other appellations in this group include Vacqueyras and Rasteau. In all cases these villages are in pretty close proximity to the famed Chateauneuf-du-Pape region and are making some excellent wines.

Gigondas, which became its own appellation in 1971, is located a mere 10 miles to the southwest of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Gigondas wines are predominantly made from Grenache, and the most common blending varietals are Syrah and Mourvedre. The wines are typically bold and muscular and have quite a bit of stylistic similarity to Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

The Chateua de Saint Cosme Gigondas 2006 has an intense purple color in your glass. This blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault has a bouquet that is dominated by cassis and also brings notes of blackberry, a floral element, and just a hint of raw meat. In your mouth you get a wonderful full body with mixed black fruit flavors. I get quite a bit of black cherry on the palate that I didn’t necessarily pick up on the bouquet as well as some cassis and blackberry. The tannins and very nice acidity give this wine some serious backbone, and the finish is sneaky long.

I decanted the wine for an hour before drinking it, and I have to say that after an hour in decanter it was still pretty tight. It was when I poured my second glass after about two hours in decanter that this Gigondas really started to shine. With some serious decanting, this wine is drinking well now, but with the structure this wine has I suspect it will be drinking much better after a couple more years or even much longer in the cellar.

Retailing for about $35, this wine is an outstanding value. It drinks as well as many Chateauneuf-du-Papes that are almost twice the price. From a pairing standpoint, this would be perfect with a rack of lamb or grilled game.

Cheers!

Girard Artistry 2006 Napa Valley

Last month I had the good fortune to be able to visit some wineries and tasting room in Napa Valley while I was in the Bay Area for my real job. While there, I picked up some great wines from wineries I knew and discovered some wonderful places that were new to me. One of the places I discovered was Girard. Although they were new to me, Girard is by no means new. They have been making wines in Napa Valley for over 35 years. Winemaker Marco DiGiulio is a UC-Davis grad who learned more on the job at places like Pine Ridge and Atlas Peak, and if the 2006 Artistry is any indication, he sure does know what he is doing.

I should also mention before I get into the wine, that Girard has a very nice tasting room right in the heart of Yountville, and if you are ever in the area I would highly recommend stopping in to see them. I hope to stop back in and see Erin and Meg in the tasting room next month when I will be back in the area. I already wrote a little bit about this wine and winery in a post recounting my visit to Yountville this summer, but I recently had occasion to open a bottle and enjoy it with my wife and tasting partner.

Consisting of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 13% Petite Verdot, 8% Malbec, and 7% Merlot with fruit sourced from Oakville, Yountville, and St. Helena, the Artistry 2006 is deep purple-red in color. The bouquet brings black cherry, cassis, and plum fruit with notes of leather and herbs. In your mouth you get a rich, full bodied mouthfeel and a fruit forward wine with black cherry, blackberry, and cassis. There is also a very subtle dark chocolate undertone and a touch of toasted walnut. The long and impressive finish is what sets this wine apart from other California Cabs and blends in the $30 to $50 price category. The finish builds like a wave that gains intensity as it slowly rolls into shore.

Overall, this is a very nice Bordeaux style blend that has more than a little complexity and some wonderful flavors. It is a very solid value at a price of about $40. I will caution that if you want to drink it now, you should definitely decant it for at least two hours. This is a wine that would also benefit from another year or two in the cellar. I know that I'm certainly going to pick up a few more bottles to test that belief.

From a pairing standpoint, I think this wine would be perfect for pot roast or a nice beef or lamb stew. Cheers!

Castello del Terriccio Tassinaia 2005 IGT Toscana

In recent weeks I have been reviewing a lot of inexpensive value wines in the $15 and under price category that give you great bang for your buck. A couple nights ago I had occasion to bring out something a little nicer from my cellar that was in a little bit higher price category. The Castello del Terriccio Tassinaia 2005 retails for about $45, which definitely takes it out of everyday value territory, but I'm here to tell you that for my money, this wine still delivers outstanding value.

The 2005 Tassinaia is made entirely with estate grown fruit at Castello del Terriccio in the northernmost part of the Tuscan Maremma just twenty short kilometers from Bolgheri. This is Super Tuscan territory where many of the best Italian blends are made with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese. The 2005 Tassinaia is made from 34% Sangiovese, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 33% Merlot that are aged separately in French oak for 14 months and then blended and bottled. The winemaking process is guided by consulting oenologist Carlo Ferrini. Ferrini has become a bit of a celebrity winemaker, but he is very unique in his belief that he will only work with nearby Italian wineries where he can be an estate consultant as opposed to a flying winemaker who shows up once a year for a few days. All his clients are in driving range and he visits them often and spends as much time in the vineyard as he does in the winery. I have to say that I like his approach.

In your glass the 2005 Tassinaia gives you wonderful aromas of blackberry, cassis, and black cherry laced with bell pepper and herbs. On the palate you get more great black fruit flavors similar to the nose along with some plum. The wine has a very pleasant full body and beautifully soft tannins (note that this is after 3 hours in decanter). The finish is fantastic and long with some very subtle earthiness and herbs to go with the fruit. To sum it up in one simple word, this wine is delicious! It's hard to believe that this is actually a second label to Castello del Terriccio's Lupicaia.

As far as value goes, this is relative for everyone and what they are comfortable spending on wine, but I believe that at $45, the 2005 Tassiniaia gives you great value for your money. Its certainly not for everyday, but its well worth it when preparing a nice meal at home. I had this a few nights ago with rosemary scented lamb chops with a port wine mushroom reduction, and they were wonderful together. It would also be great with a nice steak or grilled venison. So go ahead and splurge for that special occasion at home, or bring a bottle of Tassinaia to your favorite restaurant that allows you to bring your own and pay a reasonable corkage fee. I don't think you'll be disappointed. Cheers!