Chateua Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes Bordeaux Superieur 2009

Bordeaux. It can mean so many things. To some it brings thoughts of wines that are unattainable for most. First growth Bordeaux are often hundreds if not thousands of dollars per bottle. Only industry insiders and the wealthy are really going to get a taste of most of these wines. Even second growth Bordeaux can be pretty darn expensive, but that doesn't mean that there aren't values to be found. In fact, the same argument could be made to a lesser degree about many other regions. Look at Napa - how many of us have actually tasted Screaming Eagle or Harlan Estate's best offerings? There are now probably hundreds of Cabs that cost more than $100 a bottle, and the same could be said for key regions in Italy and Spain. For some reason, though, either its just me or the wine world in general is obsessed with the high end of Bordeaux. Although we would love to get a taste of any vintage of Chateau Petrus, we don't have the thousands of dollars or the right well placed friends necessary to do it. So as things stand for us now, we're making it our mission to find bargains in Bordeaux. We may have to taste through a few bottles of bad wine to discover them, but discover them we will. We won't write about the bad ones, but we will be highlighting a number of Bordeaux bargains on A Couple of Wines over the next few months.

Today we are looking at a Bordeaux Superieur 2009 from Chateau Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes 2009, which comes from the the area of Salignac on the Right Bank. In your glass the wine is garnet red in color. Aromas of black cherry and blackberry fruit are there for your enjoyment along with some cola and fall leaves. On the palate, you are hit up front with black cherry fruit that dominates, but there is also some blackberry. After the fruit starts to fade, you get the fine tannins, which were very enjoyable after 45 minutes in decanter. The wine has a medium body with a very reasonable 13.7% alcohol. What really makes this wine interesting, though, is the finish which brings some mild but really nice earthy elements. Overall this is a very nice and well balanced wine for the $15 that we paid for it. I bought a few bottles of this, and it will be interesting to see how it develops over time. Given some time in decanter, though, this is a 2009 Bordeaux that you can drink now.

From a pairing standpoint, this would be great with traditional French fare such as Coq Au Vin or beef stew. It would also go very nicely with lamb or steak.

Cheers!

Chateau La Bienfaisance Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2005

Bordeaux is arguably the most famous and highly regarded wine region in the world. This is not to say, however, that I'm personally making a case for the wines of Bordeaux as the best in the world. In fact for the last year, I had to work very hard to find wines from this famed region that I liked that didn't cost hundreds or thousands of dollars for a bottle. I'm sure I would love Petrus or Cheval Blanc, but there just aren't quite enough zeros at the end of my paycheck to drink those.

So about six months ago, I made it a priority to find some Bordeaux wines that are affordable and good. I figured that if so many people felt that this region is so great, then I must be able to find some good values in it. At first it wasn't easy. I started by attending a Bordeaux tasting at a local wine retailer, and the results weren't so good. Most of the wines I tasted were major disappointments. There was one exception, though, and I just revisited this wine last weekend with a wonderful dinner of lamb tenderloin with a blackberry demi-glace and a wild mushroom risotto. That exception is a wonderful blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc from Saint-Emilion.

The Chateau La Bienfaisance Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2005 is an intense purple red color in your glass. More modern in style, the nose brings black cherry, cassis, and a hint of chocolate. On the palate you get loads of cherry fruit with just a little bit of the cassis. Smooth, velvety tannins and some very nice acidity make this a beautifully structured wine that is right up my alley. I love wines that deliver delicious fruit flavor but also have structure and balance, and this fine offering from the Right Bank delivers on all accounts. This is a very good Bordeaux that is a steal in the $40 range. This wine is drinking very well now and should continue to improve with cellaring.

The wine paired beautifully with my lamb tenderloin with blackberry demi-glace, and would work very well with many French cheeses.

This is one of the first Bordeaux wines that I found that I love, but its definitely not the last. I'm going to have a lot of fun trying to find some more!

Cheers!

Gere Attila Kopar Cuvee 2006

For most of my life as a Hungarian American, I was convinced that Hungarian wine (other than Tokaj dessert wine) was pretty awful. For many years my Hungarian born father served me Egri Bikaver (or translated Bulls Blood from the city of Eger) with the best intentions of giving me something good, and every time I tried to gently tell him that it really wasn’t so good. In fact, it was quite bad.

It was only after I visited Hungary that I learned that the country not only produces some good wines, it produces some great wines from many different regions. The problem is that most of the wines being exported to the US are from large cooperatives set up by the old communist government. These cooperatives were (and some still are) much more interested in quantity than quality. Having only experienced these export wines, I initially resisted visiting the city of Eger and its numerous wineries, but after my father’s insistence on taking me there, I was very pleasantly surprised by the many excellent wineries I found there. Moving on to other wine regions from there, the surprises kept coming.

The region that impressed me the most during my visit to Hungary was Villany in the south. After visiting a few wineries here, it was apparent that this region had some pretty special terroir. Wineries like the Jozsef Bock Winery and the Gere Attila Winery were making some great wines from native Hungarian grapes as well as classic Bordeaux varietals. I also quickly learned that it wasn’t my personal favorite Cabernet Sauvignon that was the star here. I discovered that the terroir in Villany is perfectly suited for Cabernet Franc as well as pretty darn good for Merlot. It became apparent that this region in Southern Hungary had something in common with the Right Bank in Bordeaux. My biggest frustration after packing as many bottles as I could of these wines into my suitcase was that the wines of Villany were just about impossible to find in the US.

Although most of these wines are still not distributed in the eastern half of the US to my knowledge, I did just discover that K&L Wine Merchants in San Francisco is now offering some Gere Attila wines for sale on their website. Upon finding this out, I promptly ordered a number of bottles of the Gere Attila Kopar Cuvee 2006 and had them on my doorstep 36 hours later.

I then promptly showed my impatience and uncorked a bottle, putting aside any fear of bottle shock that I had. After decanting for about 45 minutes, I poured the wine, closed my eyes, and found myself back in Hungary for a minute there. The 2006 Gere Attila Kopar Cuvee had a beatiful garnet red color in my glass. The bouquet was wonderful and complex. Floral elements, leather, and spice added to the black cherry fruit on the nose. On the palate, I got black cherry as well as currant and blackberry that was balanced by some subtle minerality, decent acidity, and very nice, smooth tannins. The finish was long with a touch of dark chocolate that lingered for quite a bit.

Overall this was a lovely Bordeaux Blend done in more of a Right Bank style composed of 52% Cabernet Franc, 46% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine had a wonderful dark fruit profile to it with very nice balance and structure. For a price tag of $51, it compared favorably to similarly priced wines Bordeaux wines. I enjoyed the wine with grilled venison steaks with a port wine-mushroom reduction, and the pairing worked beautifully. So if your looking something unique and different, but still delicious, give this Bordeaux style blend from the Villany region of Hungary a try. You won't be disappointed.

Cheers!