2009 I Campi Campo Vulcano Soave Classico

Soave. Easy enough to say compared to some other Italian wines, but it kind of sounds funny doesn't it? Just saying the word makes me think of that awful Gerardo hit from the early 90's - "Rico Suave." Up until now, Soave also hasn't conjure up the greatest wine memories for me. When I think of Soave, I think back to its original heyday when my parents served it out of jugs and it was so bad that as an underage drinker, I had no desire to steal it out of their fridge. Its safe to say that these thoughts of Soave don't exactly take me to my wine happy place, but that all changed for me a couple nights ago when my new friend Melissa at 67 Wine on Manhattan's Upper West Side recommended a great Soave for me to try.

Before I get to the wine, lets talk a little about Soave in general. Soave is a wine that has suffered abuse at the hands of some larger producers as well as governing bodies, but recently a core of producers are working to produce better quality wines and increase the reputation of this region in the Veneto. There are DOC and DOCG zones in the region and both require the use of at least 70% of the Garganega grape, with many other white varietals allowed to complete the blend. The additional varietals are dependent on whether its a DOC or DOCG. There is also a "Classico" designation for wines made from grapes that are grown in the oldest parts of Soave in the hillsides.

The 2009 I Campi Campo Vulcano Soave Classico is a light straw color that moves towards clear at the edge. The nose is somewhat closed, but there are some nice citrus elements of lemon and grapefruit. On the palate you get more of the same citrus with pineapple and some other tropical fruits but without any sweetness. There is also some very interesting minerality. For me, the most enjoyable part of this wonderful Soave was the crazy cool finish. I got a really unique, refreshing, and mineral drying sensation on the top of my tongue with long lasting waves of mouthwatering acidity on the sides of my tongue on the very back of my palate. It was fascinating and like nothing else I have ever tasted. I tried this wine amongst many others in a quest to find some new white varietals that my wife and I can both enjoy. Mission accomplished with the I Campi Campo Vulcano Soave!

Pair this with a glass and some sunshine. At a price of just under $20, I'll be buying much more of this to enjoy by the pool this summer with cheese and crackers or other pre-dinner fare. It could also pair nicely with lighter chicken and fish dishes. No more thoughts of jug wine and bad 90's songs for me anymore. Thoughts of Soave can now take me to some very good places.

Cheers!

Vinosio Taurasi 2005

Italy gets so much acclaim and deservedly so for its Brunellos, Barolos, and Super Tuscans, but there are so many other good wines and regions throughout this relatively small country. One of my favorites that I'm enjoying more and more these days is Aglianico, which is a very late ripening grape that is only grown effectively in the southernmost parts of Italy. The grape itself is Greek in origin - Aglianico is thought to be a corruption of the word Ellenico which is Italian for Hellenic. It is a very dark skinned grape that makes powerful wines that when grown properly also exhibit great finesse.

Perhaps the greatest expressions of the Aglianico grape come in the DOCG of Taurasi. Located east of Napoli in Campania, Taurasi was granted DOC status in 1970 and DOCG status in 1993. The Aglianico grapes for Taurasi wines are typically grown on the hillsides of the region in volcanic soils at elevation of 1300 feet or higher. The wines ripen so late in the region that they are sometime picked in the snow, and the combination of high summer temperatures, cool nights, and long growing season makes for wines that are bold and powerful but with great acidity, finesse, and aging potential.

The Vinosia Taurasi 2005 is very dark purple in your glass. The nose brings a wild assortment of earthy aromas. I get some cedar, cola, and fresh earth along with caramel and blackberry in the bouquet, and there is probably more there that I'm missing, which is part of what makes this wine so interesting. On the palate, the fruit is a slightly sour blackberry. This is not the sweet blackberry jam that comes through on so many wines. This is the taste of imperfect fresh blackberries that are OK but not overly sweet. I don't love this on my fresh blackberries, but it is absolutely fantastic in this wine. This Taurasi, like most that are done well, also has great acidity. This acidity makes for a subtle but long finish and I believe this gives it the potential to age for many more years. At a price of $23, this is a relative steal compared to most Taurasis of this quality.

I had this with a venison ragout over homemade pappardelle, and it was absolutely perfect. This is a powerful but food friendly wine that will pair beautifully with just about any red meats.

Cheers!

Tempo Morellino di Scansano 2008

Just when I thought I was beginning to figure out Italian wines and especially Tuscan reds, along came this fantastic little find from Morellino di Scansano. This little known region (well at least for me) is in Southwest Tuscany. South and west of better know regions for Sangiovese like Chianti Classico, Montalcino, and Montepulciano and a little east of the better know parts of the coastal region of Maremma, known for its Super Tuscans which generally include more Cabernet and Merlot than Sangiovese, the Morellino di Scansano region makes wines that are primarily Sangiovese. In fact, the DOCG requires that all reds from the region must have at least 85% Sangiovese, which is more than the 80% that Chianti Classico or the 75% that Chianti requires. A relatively young region, Morello di Scansano achieved DOC status in 1978 with 10 producers, and they were given DOCG status in 2007. Today there are over 200 producers in this region which seems to be a well kept secret.

The land itself has quite a bit of variety as you move throughout the region. In the west, where you get relatively close to the sea, elevations are as low as 30 feet above seal level, and as you move east you will see vines planted in vineyards as high as 1500 feet. Soils also vary throughout the region and are often a mix of limestone, sandstone, rock or clay.

The Tempo Morellino di Scansano 2008, which is produced by Terre di Talamo is produced from vineyards near the coast that have rock, limestone, and sandstone on the surface with a layer of clay lower down that helps the vines survive the hot, dry summers. In your glass, the wine is garnet red in color. The nose is dominated by cherry fruit but has some undertones of cedar as well as some bell pepper. In your mouth, you get cherry, sour cherry, and red currant with very mild tannins. The very nice, balanced acidity helps this wine to linger quietly on your palate for quite some time. Overall, this is a very pleasant wine, that is well worth the $15.99 price that I paid for it.

Pair this with traditional Italian fare. Pasta with meatballs or sausage, grilled red meats, or even Osso Bucco would be delicious with this nice little find from Morellino di Scansano.

Cheers!

Terredora di Paolo Falanghina 2009

Ahhhh, summer...the wonderful time of year where on the good days the temperature goes up and the pace of life slows down. These care free but warm days are no time for your favorite big reds or even an oaky Chardonnay. They call for something cooler, crisper, and more refreshing. I typically find myself drinking a lot of Sauvignon Blanc in the summer with some Albarino, a Vouvray, or a dry rose mixed in every so often. Not being a fan of Pinot Grigio, Italy was never on my radar for white wine. This year, however, that has all changed for me with the discovery of a wine and a varietal that are new to me. Falanghina is grape that is indigenous to Southern Italy. Once relegated to being a blending grape for many years, some producers have discovered in recent years that they can make some outstanding wines from 100% Falanghina. Thanks to some of my favorite retailers, I was introduced to the Terredora Di Paolo Falanghina this spring. If you happen to be in New York City, you can also find this by the glass at Wine:30 ( http://www.wine30nyc.com/index.html ), one of my favorite wine bars in the city.

Terredora di Paolo Falanghina 2009 comes from the Irpinia IGT which sits within the region of Campania in Southern Italy. In your glass the wine is pale straw in color. The bouquet brings aromas of citrus and pineapple. In your mouth you get a wine with a light-medium body with wonderful flavors of pineapple and lemon with hints of pear and light stone fruit. What I like best about this wine, though, is the crisp acidity that works together with the fruit to make this wine so enjoyable and refreshing on a hot summer day.

From a pairing standpoint, the Terredora di Paolo Falanghina 2009 would be perfect with some grilled mahi-mahi or any light fish or shellfish. At a price point of around $14, its also a pretty nice value.

Cheers!

Seghesio Aldo e Riccardo Barbera d'Alba DOC 2007

Italy has such an amazing variety of wine grapes. One of the true workhorses that most serious drinkers and Italian wine lovers know, but that many casual drinkers are not necessarily familiar with is Barbera. Barbera is grown in many areas of Italy, and for many years it was used to make high volume, second-rate wine. In recent years, though, the quality of wine made from this grape has improved dramatically. The best Barbera is grown in Piedmont in the Barbera d’Asti and Barbera d’Alba regions – thank you Italy for actually putting the name of the grape on the name of the region in this case to keep it simple for us! Barbera wines are generally medium bodied with a variety of red and black fruit flavors and very nice acidity that makes it rather food friendly. As a rule it is a wine that can be enjoyed in its youth but doesn’t necessarily have to be drunk young.

Seghesio Barbera D’Alba 2007 is a deep purple red in your glass. The bouquet brings cherry, blackberry, and blueberry fruit with some subtle leather. On the palate, the blackberry fades into the background, and the black cherry and blueberry fruit dominate along with a strong earthy component on the finish. The tannins are mild and nice acidity adds some balance to this wine. Overall, this is a nice wine that doesn’t knock my socks off, but it provides some complexity and a decent value at a price point just under $15. I should also note that I drank my first glass with minimal decanting, and it was definitely a little tight and harsh at first. It was much better after about 45 minutes.

This is a little darker and more full bodied than most Barbera, and it would pair pretty well with pasta with a classic Bolognese sauce.

If you're interested in seeing some other great Italian wines, see this link http://acoupleofwines.blogspot.com/search/label/Italy

Cheers!

Terredora Di Paolo Aglianico 2008 Campania IGT

One of the greatest revelations for me over the last few years as I have become more and more serious about learning all I that I can about wine, has been the realization that so many countries now have regions beyond their most famous ones that are producing fantastic wines. Everyone knows Napa Valley in the United States, but have you had a great wine from the Willamette Valley in Oregon, the Columbia Valley in Washington, or even the Finger Lakes Region in New York? Most casual wine drinkers have had a French Bordeaux or a Spanish Rioja, but have you tried any of the great values coming from the Languedoc in France or Jumilla in Spain? This list could go on and on in today’s global wine world. There are so many different corners of the world that are producing great wine, that it is hard for even the experts to keep track of them all these days.

Another country that has a fantastic diversity of great wines is Italy. Many still just think of Chianti or other Tuscan wines when they think of Italy, but there are great wines coming from Piedmont in the north all they way down to Calabria and Sicily in the south.

Today’s topic is a strong value that I found from the Terradora Di Paolo winery in Campania in Southern Italy. The region of Campania primarily grows the white Greco di Tufo grape and the red Aglianico varietal. Aglianico has been grown in Southern Italy for centuries. The grape was brought to Italy by Greek settlers centuries ago, and the name Aglianico itself is a rough translation of the term Hellenic. The varietal is a late ripening one that can’t be ripened effectively much further north than Campania, but when it can be ripened properly it can produce some very interesting results. The family running the Terredora Di Paolo winery has been growing Aglianico for about 35 years, and they started their own winery operation in 1994. They are the largest producer in Campania with vineyard holdings of about 600 acres.

The Terredora Di Paolo Aglianico 2008 has a nice ruby-purple color in your glass. The nose is dominated by black raspberry and blackberry fruit. On the palate, the wine is fruit forward with lots of dark berry flavor, but this is no simple fruit bomb. The wine has very intense but pleasant acidity for a fruit driven red, and the tannins provide additional balance. The finish has a little length to it and brings an added layer of spice and minerality. Overall this Aglianico has some very nice flavor and structure. There is quite a bit going on here for a bottle that retails for about $14 and delivers great value for the money.

This wine can be pretty versatile from a pairing standpoint, but I think it would go best with a tasty meat lasagna. It would also work well with beef prepared just about any way. If you need some recipe ideas, Terredora Di Paolo has a great English language website with some very interesting looking recipes. You can find it here http://www.terredora.net/american.php So give this interesting and delicious red from Campania a try, and remember that there are literally hundreds of fantastic wine regions in the world. How many have you discovered yet?

Cheers!

Produttori del Barbaresco D.O.C.G. 2005

Who needs Barolo when Barbaresco can be this good – especially when Barolo is typically twice the price? That’s the question I asked myself after trying the Produtorri del Barbaresco D.O.C.G. 2005. As many of you know, Barbaresco and Barolo are both made in the Piedmont region of northern Italy from the Nebbiolo grape. The Barbaresco region is just a few miles to the northeast of its more famous neighbor, but with rare exceptions in the higher price ranges, its wines are not given the same critical acclaim and respect as those from Barolo. The Produttorri del Barabaresco 2005 is a rare exception in a not so high price range - at least comparatively. So even though I may still need Barolo once in awhile, it's a lot easier on the wallet to get my Nebbiolo fix with this great value Barbaresco.

In addition to the fact that this wine is surprisingly great, I am even more surprised by the fact that it is made by a large cooperative of growers. Usually the grower’s cooperatives lose their focus on quality, but in the case of this group of 56 growers farming over 250 acres of Nebbiolo vineyards in and around the village of Barbaresco, they have remained intensely focused on producing quality wine. In addition to this wonderful Barbaresco, the co-op also makes a basic Nebbiolo as well as a number of single vineyard Barbarescos.

Made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes grown on hillsides at 650 to 1300 feet in elevations with clay soil filled streaked with limestone and calcium, this Barbaresco is aged for 20 months in oak casks. Mostly ruby red in color with just a little bit of brick to it, the wine is very pretty in your glass. The nose brings cherry fruit with notes of black raspberry along with a very nice earthy element and just a hint of pencil shavings. In your mouth you get a combination of black cherry and sour cherry fruit with a touch of spice. This medium bodied wine has very nice tannins that are just a bit chalky with nice acidity to balance things out. It’s drinking quite nicely now, but it has the structure to age at least another 5 years. It also has nice length to the finish.

I had this wine with Osso Bucco, and it was a heavenly pairing! It would also go very well with grilled game or a wild mushroom risotto. Retailing in the mid $20’s for a bottle, this Barbaresco is a steal. For similar quality Barolo made from the same Nebbiolo grape, you will pay twice as much. Lucky for us there were 17,000 cases made, so there should be plenty of this great wine for all!

Cheers!

Fossacolle Rosso di Montalcino 2007

The more I drink wines from Montalcino in Tuscany, the more I like them. This is not a bad thing save for the fact that most of these wines are Brunello di Montalcinos that often retail for $75 and up. Fortunately not all Sangiovese based wines from this region are expensive Brunellos, and every so often you can find a Rosso that is a great wine and a great value. The Fossacolle Rosso di Montalcino 2007 is just such a value.

Fossacolle is a very small producer in the village of Tavernelle in the south of Montalcino. There were only 500 cases of the 2007 Rosso produced, and their entire estate is only about 10 acres. Family owned and operated by Sergio Marchetti and his family, Fossacolle is a very young winery by Italian standards. Their first Sangiovese vines were planted in 1984, and they started producing Rossos shortly after that with their first Brunello vintage to come in 1997. Althought they don't have the hundreds of years of history that so many Italian producers have, their results show no lack of experience.

The Fossacolle Rosso di Montalcino 2007 is a deep, intense red color in your glass. The bouquet brings cherry and plum fruit with notes of vanilla bean and herbs. In your mouth, dark cherry fruit dominates the flavor profile. The wine is medium-full in body with solid tannins and a very nice finish for a Rosso. This Rosso could very well put some lesser Brunellos to shame in a direct comparison.

At a price in the low to mid $20's, this wine is an outstanding value. A versatile food friendly wine, this can be enjoyed with aged Italian cheeses, grilled meats, or Italian veal dishes. Although it can be hard to find, it is well worth it if you can get a bottle.

Cheers!

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2004

Very often when you long to get a particular wine that is very hard to find, the results can be disappointing once you finally obtain a bottle and taste it. With the Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2004, that is absolutely not the case for me. This wine is one of the most sought after bottlings of the 2004 vintage of Brunellos, and it is hard to find for a very good reason, which is the fact that it is absolutely delicious!

Made from 100% Sangiovese, the Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 20204 has a beautiful deep garnet red color in your glass. The bouquet is extremely pleasant and complex. You get black cherry, black raspberry, chocolate, and a wonderful herbal element which is dominated by sage. In your mouth you get black cherry, blackberry, cola, and a hint of herbs and licorice. The mouthfeel is rich and pleasant without being overwhelming in its weight. It does not feel at all like a wine that has 15% alcohol. The tannins are nice but could certainly use a few years to mellow, and the overall structure of this wine is fantastic. Where this wine really shines is in the finish. You get a great big lift on the finish that lasts and lasts. The Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2004 is the gift that just keeps giving. If you truly enjoy the finish for what it is, you could easily enjoy a glass of this wine for over an hour. The finish is that good and that long.

Overall this is a fantastic wine that is worth searching for if you are a collector or someone who enjoys great Italian wines. I’m going to break from my normal practice of listing a retail price since there are very few retailers out there who have this left and the price range is large, but if you can get find a bottle for under $100, it is well worth it! My only suggestion if you do find a bottle would be to buy it now and drink it a few years down the road when it starts to hit its prime.

This would pair very well with hard Italian cheeses or grilled meats. It would be perfect with game or a rack of lamb. Cheers!

Castello del Terriccio Tassinaia 2005 IGT Toscana

In recent weeks I have been reviewing a lot of inexpensive value wines in the $15 and under price category that give you great bang for your buck. A couple nights ago I had occasion to bring out something a little nicer from my cellar that was in a little bit higher price category. The Castello del Terriccio Tassinaia 2005 retails for about $45, which definitely takes it out of everyday value territory, but I'm here to tell you that for my money, this wine still delivers outstanding value.

The 2005 Tassinaia is made entirely with estate grown fruit at Castello del Terriccio in the northernmost part of the Tuscan Maremma just twenty short kilometers from Bolgheri. This is Super Tuscan territory where many of the best Italian blends are made with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese. The 2005 Tassinaia is made from 34% Sangiovese, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 33% Merlot that are aged separately in French oak for 14 months and then blended and bottled. The winemaking process is guided by consulting oenologist Carlo Ferrini. Ferrini has become a bit of a celebrity winemaker, but he is very unique in his belief that he will only work with nearby Italian wineries where he can be an estate consultant as opposed to a flying winemaker who shows up once a year for a few days. All his clients are in driving range and he visits them often and spends as much time in the vineyard as he does in the winery. I have to say that I like his approach.

In your glass the 2005 Tassinaia gives you wonderful aromas of blackberry, cassis, and black cherry laced with bell pepper and herbs. On the palate you get more great black fruit flavors similar to the nose along with some plum. The wine has a very pleasant full body and beautifully soft tannins (note that this is after 3 hours in decanter). The finish is fantastic and long with some very subtle earthiness and herbs to go with the fruit. To sum it up in one simple word, this wine is delicious! It's hard to believe that this is actually a second label to Castello del Terriccio's Lupicaia.

As far as value goes, this is relative for everyone and what they are comfortable spending on wine, but I believe that at $45, the 2005 Tassiniaia gives you great value for your money. Its certainly not for everyday, but its well worth it when preparing a nice meal at home. I had this a few nights ago with rosemary scented lamb chops with a port wine mushroom reduction, and they were wonderful together. It would also be great with a nice steak or grilled venison. So go ahead and splurge for that special occasion at home, or bring a bottle of Tassinaia to your favorite restaurant that allows you to bring your own and pay a reasonable corkage fee. I don't think you'll be disappointed. Cheers!

Fossetti Rosso Toscano IGT 2007

It's not very often that I get truly excited about a bottle of wine that retails for $9.99. This Fossetti Rosso Toscano bottled by Mocali in Montalcino is one of those value wines that has me quite fired up. Mocali is better know for the famed Brunello di Montalcino, but this bargain Rosso made primarily with Sangiovese and some Canaiolo outperforms many Brunellos and Chiantis that cost much, much more.

Very dark purple in the glass, the nose is filled with aromas of intense cherry fruit with other dark berry aromas and some very subtle leather. The wine is fruit forward in style and very approachable at a young age. This is a 2007 Rosso that is absolutely ready to drink now. In your mouth you get the same intense cherry flavors and other dark berries that are so pleasant on the bouquet. The body is medium-full with rather mild acidity for a Sangiovese, and the tannins are very smooth. Aside from maybe wanting a little more acidity, this is already a very good wine; however, it is the long finish that really sets it apart from other value wines from Tuscany. This wine just keeps providing pleasure for your taste buds well after you swallow a sip.

As far as value for your money goes, this is about as good as it gets. At $9.99 a bottle, go out and buy a couple cases. This is an absolute steal.

I enjoyed this with some pasta and sausage with red sauce, but this would also pair very well with with grilled meats or a good aged Italian cheese.

Falesco Vitiano 2007 - Umbria

I have to say that I tasted the Falesco Vitiano 2007 with some rather high expectation for a bottle that retails for around $9. The very stingy critic Stephen Tanzer gave this wine a glowing review with a 91 point rating which is just about unheard of for something in this price range. After tasting it, I am not completely in agreement with Mr. Tanzer, but I do think that this wine is a decent value.

This Umbrian Rosso is made from 34% Sangiovese and 33% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In your glass you get intensely dark purple color. The bouquet is dominated by blackberry and cassis with a little bit of leather to it. On the palate you get blackfruit flavors which are primarily cassis with some black cherry, and there is also some earthiness that I found to be just a little bit off . The Sangiovese did contribute some pleasant acidity to the blend. The other flaw I found with this wine was the tannins. They were too chalky and bitter for my taste. I'm a guy that generally likes strong tannins, but in this case they put the wine out of balance, especially on the finish. This Rosso had a finish with some nice length to it, but the chalky, almost astringent tannins overpowered the other flavors which were present but very subtle.

Overall, the Falesco Vitiano is still a good value when you consider the $9 price tag, but it is nowhere near the 91 point score that Stephen Tanzer gave it - probably more in the 85 to 87 range if I had to put a score to it. My recommendation is to really let this decant a long time, at least 3 hours, to let those tannins mellow out a little bit.

As far as food goes, this would pair best with aged Italian cheese like a Parmigiano Reggiano or a Pecorino.

Uccelliera Rosso di Montalcino 2007

This excellent wine comes from the region of Montalcino, which is famous for its high powered and high priced Brunello di Montalcinos. This Rosso from Uccilliera is a fantastic wine that will give many Brunellos a run for their money.

In your glass the wine has a beatiful medium red color. The bouquet is full of rasberry and plum with just a hint of cinnamon. The wine has a medium-full body with a very pleasant acidity and soft tannins. Flavors of red cherry, sour cherry and plum are abundant. This had incredible fruit flavor for a Sangiovese and a smooth, lasting finish.

Overall, the Uccelliera Rosso di Montalcino 2007 is an outstanding wine. It outperforms many Brunellos which are 2 to 3 times the price. It definitely delivers a great value for its $25 price tag. Highly recommended!

Pair with pasta and marinara sauce, Parmigiano Reggiano, cured Italian meats, or veal.

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2005 DOCG

This is a very good wine from a region of Tuscany that is not quite as well known as some of its famous neighbors. Just about everyone is familiar with Chianti and Chianti Classico, and many are familiar with the region of Montalcino and their esteemed Brunellos. For reasons I can't quite figure out, the region of Montepulciano has neither the familiarity of Chianti among casual wine drinkers nor the status of Brunello di Montalcino among those who are a little more serious about their wine.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines are primarily Prugnolo Gentile, which is a clone of Sangiovese - the main grape in Chianti, Chianti Classico, and Brunello di Montalcino. The DOCG requires that all Vino Nobile must have at least 70% Prugnolo Gentile, and they also allow smaller percentages of Canaiolo Nero and other approved varieties. For those of you who want to know even more about Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, see this link: http://www.vinonobiledimontepulciano.it/vinonobiledimontepulciano.en.php#leuve

This offering from Avignonesi is comprised of primarily Prugnolo Gentile with small amounts of Canaiolo Nero and Mammolino. The color is a medium red with a small hint of rust normally seen in older wines. With a swirl of the glass, you get beautiful black cherry aromas with a mild cinnamon accent, with much of the same on the palate. This is a beautiful expression of Tuscan wine and the Prugnolo/Sangiovese grape.

At a retail price in the mid $20s, you get quality that is similar to many Brunellos which retail for well over $50.

Enjoy this great Tuscan red with roasted meats, grilled game, or a great Parmiagiano Reggiano.